Trimming and raveling attachment for machines for sewing looped fabrics.



un. .s29,|49.- Paume lulyils, m99.V f l E. n. Bowu. -THIIIIING MIDBAVELING ATTACHMENT FDR MACHINES FDR SEWTN'G LUUPED FABRICS..

` (maximin mea mp2s, 139s.) A Y (lhlqdai.)

" 'M ATTURNBL UNITED VSfrrrrns PATENT i Orricn'.

EUGENE II. BROWN, OF BENNINGTON, VERMONT, AS-SlGNOR TO THE UNIONRAvELER, COMPANY, or

NORTH BENNINGTON, VERMONT.

Tim/lume AND RAW-:LING ATTACHMENTFOR MACHINES For; sEwiNG LooPED sismos.

SPECIFICATION' forming part of Letters .Eatentl No.v 629,149, dated July18, 1.899.

Application inea tammy 26, 1893; semina. 459,791l un man.)

To all whom, t may concern: y

. lBe it known that I, EUGENE H. BROWN, of the village of Bennington, inthe county o Bennington and State of Vermont, have in vented certainImprovements in Trimming' and' Raveling Attachments for LoopingMachines;and I do hereby declare that thesub-l joined description, takeninconnection with the accompanying specilication thereof and of the bestmanner of constructing and using the same.

The invention is designed to Vbe used in connection with machinescommonly called loopers, used in themanufacture of under- Wear forattaching knit ribs to shirt-sleeves, drawer-bottoms, and shirt-bodies,and lthe function performed by it is to remove the.

surplus fabric projecting above the pins of the pin-Wheel after the bodycloth of the garment and the rib have been attached tothe same and topick or ravel out any adhering debris of the cut stitches after thepin-Wheel has ycarried the fabric past the blade of thetrimming-knife'bet'ore/it reaches the sewingneedle.

The invention belongs to that class of trimming-machines in which theloops ofthe course of stitches next above the impaled course aresuccessively out or severed by a pointed blade rand the severedfragments of loops remaining adherent to the impaled stitches aresubsequently removed by clearing devices. Let- V ters Patent to Amos F.Champlin, No. 421,549,1

dated February 18, 1890, show ablade for `cutting the loops which swingsin a vertical plane and has a cutting' edge turned upwardly which seversthev loop entered by iti at the center of its top, thus after each cutIleaving two upstanding ends of the loop fragment which are of equallength. Being thus of equal length, it becomes more difficult for theclearing or raveling devices to seize one of these ends and miss theother than it would be it' one of these ends Were longer than the other.Hence if such a center-cut loop fragment happens to be caught by theclearing devices by both of its ends at the same time, the pulling orthose devices pulls up and often breaks the impaled stitches or loopsolif from the pins drawings, constitutes av :trough thus forms theraveling-plate. Y Y I represents loop fragments produced byv a ver-'tical center cut.

raveling action or stroke et of the piu-,Wheel on account of theenlacement of the loop fragment with the impaled loops, with the resultvthat when the Work is carried to the seWing-needle,.the loops havingbeen torn oii'the pins, there is nothing left for the sewing-thread toengage, and a gap inthe seam is produced which has to be taken up or`repaired by hand or a hole in the goods will beleft. This dicnlty ismore apparent where every successive loop is out than where everyalternate loop is cut. In

' the present invention I turn the cutting-blade that it reciprocateslin a` down on its side, so horizontal plane, and thus cuts the loopentered by it at one side only, thereby leaving a short and a longopstanding .endl The clearing-blades are adj usted to Work inahorizontal plane at an elevation between the planes of the long andshort ends ot the loop fragments. As a result of this arrangement l whenthe pin-wheel carries the loop fragments between the clearing-jaws theymiss the short end of each loop fragment, but seize the long upstandingend and .pull it out Without resistance or damage to the impaledloops.

The inventionV is fully shown in the drawings, wherein the mechanism isshown in plan in Figure l. Fig. 2 is a front elevation of the same. Fig.3 Vis a vertical sect-ion taken l through'the'axis of the cutter-slideand shows the relation of the raveler-ngers to the edge of theWaste-trough, which part of the Waste- .Fisf 4 v Fig. 5 represents loopfragments produced by cutting one side of the loop and shows a long 'anda short end to each sev :ered fragment.

The apparatus consists of` a small stand A, which is attached to the topplate T of the looper by the screws a ce. A set-screw A4 passes throughthis plate and bears against the top of plate inclination of the standwith reference to the points or stitch-pins. This is done by looseningthe screws@ ct and setting the adjusting-screw A4 as desired and thentightening it. To this base A an arched bracket Bis attached, which isadapted to slide vertically thereon by means of the tongue b, which is Tfor adjusting the angle ofV fitted to slide in the groove di of -thestand. The stand has two ears a cd, between which the adjusting-screw Kturns, the necking of the screw coming between the ears and the threadedpart entering the threaded hole b2 in the bracket. On the front uppersurface of the bracket B is a stud 71,10 the top of which the lever G ispivoted. The other end of this lever is connected by a pitman H with thecrank-disk H', which oscillates the arm T", that carries thesewingneedle T2, so that it plays back and forth in unison therewith.The member which carries the blade J should reciprocate in unison withthe intermittent movements of thepin-wheel, so that the point of theblade will enter and cut each loop while the pin-wheel is at rest, andsuch member may be connected with and actuated by any part of thedriving mechanism which will secure that result. Lever G has anelongated Slot g, which takes in the driving-pin d ofy the reciprocatingslide D, which plays in a socket C, provided therefor, and attached tothe bracket B. The front end of this slide D has a cross-head CZ, towhich the blade J and the raveli'ng-fingers E are attached. The blade .lis a steel plate of substantially the `form shown drawn to aneedle-pointy' for entering the second stitch above the point ou thepinwheel and gradually opening it for the admission of the knife-bladefollowing it. By reason of the horizontal position of this blade and itsapproximate parallelism with the plane of the pins it trims the fabricwith a shaving stroke loop by loop without requiring any resistingsupport behind it, such draft or drag as may be put on the fabric by thecutting thrust of the blade beingmore nearly in a line parallel with therim of the pinwheel than across it. In this respect it differs from someexisting machines in which the cutter-blade plays through a slot in aplate which supports the fabric. The horizontal position of the saidblade is part-icularly important, because it enables the said blade tocut only one side of each loop above the impaled loops of the fabric,thereby leaving a loop fragment enlaced with theimpaled loops which hasa short and a long upstanding end, the latter of which passes along tothe raveling-blades, between which it is seized and pulled out, whilethe short end passes under them out of their reach. The raveling deviceconsists of a steel blade E, which may be solid or slit into sections,like that shown in the drawings. In practice as the slide isreciprocated the front edge of the raveling blade or lingers playsagainst the beveled edge f of the Waste-trough F or the ravelingplateand in doing so catches the aforesaid long ends and any adherent shredsor cut yarn retained by the loops on the pins and pulls them out. Theopposed edges of blade E and plate F lie just above and in rear of theloops on the pins. The blade E or the raveliug-iingers are preferablymade slightly elastic, so that if they engage a knot or otherexcrescence on the yarn they-will' yield, if necessary. The waste-troughF is of dishing shape and of substantially the form shown, so as toreceive the severed selvage and any ravelings detached by theraveling-iingers, which consist, mainly, of the aforesaid deiached loopfragments, and conducts them around and delivers them over the edge ofthe rim of the machine and drops them. out of the Way. Another guide Pis connected with the stand A by the screw 1o, the contour surface ofwhich guide lies just above but in close proximity to the upper surfaceof the pins, which serves to take the curl out of the edges of the clothand to maintain its erect position as it approaches the blade. Beneaththe arched bracket B is attached a springstock N, to which theguidespring or de- AflectorL is fastened. This guide-spring bearsagainst the face of the fabric just below the pins of the pin-Wheel, andits innerer bearing edge inclines from heel to point upwardly toward thepins. The gooseneck curve in the stock N acts as a spring to throw theguide toward the rim of the pin-wheel and preserves a uniform and evencontact therewith. The function of the guide-spring Lis to draw thefabric down as it approaches the cuttingpoint and hold it tightlystretched as it is being trimmed, so that the action of the blade willnot pull the fabric up and fail to severit properly or raise the loopson the pins high enough for them to be caught by the ravelerfingers andbe damaged by them.

y Just above the ravelngdingers an elastic clearing spring-guard XV isplaced, which is as seen in dotted lilies. This blade is so adjustedthat its under edge lies just in front of the forward edge of theclearing-lingers, so that their forward stroke will lift the springslightly and the back stroke will cause the under edge to scrape offinto the waste-trough F any and all lint-ravelings and loop fragmentswhich might incline to adhere to the edges of the raveling-iingers.

The operation of the machine is as follows: The two pieces of fabric tobe sewed together- 'L'. e., the body cloth and the ribv-having firstbeen run onto the pins and pressed back against the rim of the pin-wheelin the usual way and connection having been established between the endof the lever G and some reciprocating part of the apparatus acting inunison with the reciprocating needle T and the intermittent movement ofthe pin-wheel and the spring-guide L having been brought to bear fairlyagainst the surface of the fabries below the pins, the machine isstarted. As the pin-wheel Q advances step by step the supporting-guideacts to keep the edges of the two pieces standing uprightly till theyreach the blade J. Here the stroke of the blade enters its leading pointj through the cloth without rupturing the loop necessarily, but at thesame time opening it, so that the beveled edge of the blade can followand cut fastened to the bracket B, beneaththe areh,'

ICO

IIO

its way freelyto the extent of its breadth from the point in the goodswhere it ent-ered toward the needle or in that direction. The elevationof the blade above the pins is such that the cut is made through thecourse of:

loops next above the-course run onto the pins,

.so that the cut fragments of yarn represent entire loops severed atvone side,l about onehalf the length of each of which is enlaced with theloops, which are im paled on two adjacent pins', and the other half isleft disendrops 'trimmed edges reachV they pass alongbetween them andthe edge gaged by the action ofthe blade and projecting fof the plate F,the projecting or flying long ends of the loop fragments or ravelingsare .caught between the front edges of the fingers .other waste over andthe edge fof the plate'F, while the short ends escape beneath and underthe reciprocation of the slide are vpulled out, or rather pushed out,and are swept along with the the plate F and out of the way.- Duringthis performance -the spring L has held the cloth rmly drawn down; butas the cloth is fed along toward the needle it passes out from under.said spring-and contracts to its normal condition. v

Special advantages accrue from using the blade in a horizontal position,so that the cut- .ting plane shall be parallel with the plane ofrotation of the pins. This position dispenses with the necessity ofhaving a supportingplate behind thevfabric at the cutting-point, andsuch a back-supporting plate is dispensed with in'this machine. Neitherare auynotches nor plates for the blade to play through necessary.` Viththe cutting edge ofthe blade beveled or slanted back so that itsleadingpoint as it enters the loop is on the side toward the uncutfabric as itis pushed through the strain put on the goods/in the trimming process issustained by the sound or uncut fabric, supported by the pinsupon-whichit is impaled, and is thus much more firmly held than when thecut or rupture is in a vertical direction. Besides, the liabilityr ofinjuring the course of loops on the pins is greatly diminished.`

When a vertical blade is employed, the loop which is above the impaledloop of the fabric is cut through on top in each instance, leaving thetwo sides of the cnt loop approximately equal in length. When theclearing-iin ger is brought into contact with them, it will often takehold ofboth together-equally, and asthey resist with equal force thepull on the uncut loops is apt lto tear them; but my horizontal blade,severing at the side of the loop, close to the row of uncut impaledloops, will leave on one sidel only the entirepart of any cut loop, andthis side is easily caught by the clearingdinger and pulled free, theopposite As the cutting 629,149 'y v a end of the loop'not'standin ghigh enough above the impaling-'pins to be caught by the. clearingdevices. As there is a substantial interval between the point j and theclearing-iinger after lthe blade 'hascut the side of a loop, y

the beveled heel of the bladel on the next stroke will throw up the longend of the loop fragment, leavingl it opstanding high above the shortend, which promotes its seizure by the clearing-fingers. The effect on aparticularfloop of the first cnt and of the successive blows of theblade upon the loosened end to throw it lup in the path of theclearing-fingers is clearly shown in Fig. 5. The cutting stroke simplysevers a loop, but leaves the terminal of the predestined long end stillundetached from the webV of the fabric. The next stroke. draws it out,and subsequent strokes whip it up into ,a practically erect positionwhere it cannot escape the clearing-jaws.v Thispeculiarly-shaped bladefittedl with the leading opening-point j also. possesses advantages overa leading point prod need by carrying the ground bevel of the cuttingedge out to the extreme point, for the needle-point yof this blade opensthe loop without cutting or rupturi'ng' it in any way, thusleaving thecutting edge which follows it to sever the thread ofl a single loopwithout involving any other and without straining the loops'on thepoints of the pin-'wheel immediately'underneath the blade. This leavesthe trimmed marginsof the two piecesof Vfabric in perfect integrity andentirely cleaned from waste, especially to be desired. v

I therefore claim as my inventionsa. condition ICO I. In a machine forsewing looped fabrics,

the combination with a pin-wheel havingits pins for supporting thefabric disposed in a horizontal plane, of a trimming mechanismcomprising a lblade having a tapering point and a cutting edge laterallydii-'erging from vthe base of said point, said blade being disposed in aplane that will cause its cutting edge to lie substantially parallelwith the plane of the pins and close to and slightly' above said pins,means for reciprocating said blade, and means for removing the severedloops from the fabric, whereby the `point of said blade will first andthen the cutting edge will sever the said loops at one side only andclose t`o the pins,

to the end that said severed loops shall be ofY unequal lengths thusinsuring their ready removal.

2. In a machine for sewing looped fabrics, the combination with apin-wheel having its pins for supportingihe fabric disposed in ahorizontal plane, of a trimming mechanism comprising,r a blade having atapering and a cutting edge laterally diverging from the base of saidpoint, said blade beingdisposed in a plane that will cause its cuttingedge to lie substantially parallel with the plane of the pins, and,opposite the rowof loops next above the course of impaledloops,v meansfor reciprocating said blade,

whereby point enter the loops to be cnt the point of said blade Willfirst enter the loops to be cut and then its cutting edge will sever thesaid loops at one side only, to the end that each severed loop fragmentshall present to the clearing or raveling devices ends of unequallengths, the longer of which only passes into the field ot' action ofthe clearing devices.

3. The combination with the pin-Wheel and driving mechanism of a machinefor sewing looped fabrics', of aloop-severing attachment embracing aneedle-pointed blade possessing an edge adapted to sever a loop, areciprocating member upon which said blade is mounted with its cuttingedge turned toward one side of the center of the 'loop to be cut so asto sever the loops entered by it at one side only and close to theimpaled loops, said reciprocating member being positively geared to saiddriving mechanism so as to synchrozo nize with the intermittentmovements of the pin-Wheel, whereby the blade shall enter and out theloops While the pin-Wheel is at rest.

In testimony whereof I have hereto subscribed my name, at Bennington,Vermont, 25

